"Paladar" in Cuba.
Paladares are private restaurants- that is, they are among the few things that are not in the hands of the Cuban state, that have been “permitted” since the 90’s, during the “Special Period” (which the authorities say we still haven’t emerged from)…
Let’s start with the name paladar: in the 90’s, there was a Brazilian telenovela that was very popular on Cuban TV about a poor but enterprising young woman who finds success when she starts a home-style cooking business, with competitive prices and home-cooked favorites. First she sells her food as a street vendor, walking the beach and the streets, and as she earns more money, she decides to open her own place, which she calls Paladar. And of course, the similar home-based businesses that were allowed in Cuba were called "Paladares".
This permission from the government came about for several reasons: in the middle of the crisis in the 90’s (and also today), the paladares were seen as a source of employment, especially for the unemployed who didn’t have the least interest in working for the state; it was also seen as an alternative to the issue of available food in the country, maintained by a state food network that was characterized by inefficiency, lack of proper hygiene, and a lack of quality (all of which is still true today). The paladares were also seen as a revenue source for the all-powerful state because of the high taxes charged to owners. I also think that during this period of flirtation with foreign capital, the paladares were thought to give the appearance of “open, liberalized” measures being adopted on the island.
Permits were issued to expand fast food (sort of like cafeterias or picnic areas), and for restaurants. But this an extra roadblock set up for the former: they can only have 2 seats available for customers (and the possible combinations are 3 tables with 4 chairs; 4 tables with 3 chairs; 6 with 2, etc.). It reminds me of a Cuban comedy from the 60’s, “The 12 Chairs”.
The list of limitations to opening this sort of business is rather lengthy, so I won’t mention them all.
Despite all of the difficulties in obtaining one of these permits, a huge number of people requested them when they first became available …today, applying Darwin’s theory of natural selection, I can tell you that the best paladares have survived, the ones that offer the best surroundings, the ones with the best prices, the best location or the excellent service provided.
Although there is more to explain, which I’ll do in a later article, I can list here some noteworthy paladares, so that if you come to Havana you can enjoy this private dining option:
- La Guarida
- La Cocina de Lilian
- La Fontana
- La Flor de Loto
- La Bella Napoli
- La Esperanza
Bon Apetit!
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